Is Your Kitchen a Good Candidate
Most kitchens we look at follow the same pattern. The finish is worn through where hands land every day, the edges are chipped or peeling, and a door hangs crooked no matter how many times the hinge is turned. Then you open one up and the box inside is square, dry, and solid. That is a good candidate: the surface has quit, the box hasn't. Grease buildup near the range is normal in a working kitchen and not a disqualifier. Cleaning it off is part of the prep.
The flip side: if a box is swollen from an old sink leak, or a frame has pulled loose from the wall, new material glued over it only hides the problem for a while. And if what bothers you is where the fridge stands rather than how the cabinets look, that is a remodel, not refacing. We say so when we measure, because quoting the wrong job helps nobody.
How the Work Goes
On the first visit we measure the runs, count the doors and drawer fronts, and look at every exposed end. On the work day, we clear the counters and take off the doors, drawer fronts, and hardware. Every surface that will be covered gets cleaned to strip the grease, lightly scuffed with sandpaper so the new material has something to grip, and wiped free of dust. New material over a greasy, glossy surface is the classic refacing failure, so we don't rush this step.
Once the surfaces are ready, the new material goes on. Where a cabinet end is exposed, we measure and fit a plywood panel, secure it, and smooth the surface so the end reads as a finished face rather than a patch.

Materials and Tools
Two terms, in plain language. Veneer is the thin skin that becomes your new face. Edge banding is the narrow strip that seals a raw edge so it looks finished and stays sealed.
The equipment is humbler than people expect. A veneer roller, or a scraper where a stubborn spot calls for one, presses the veneer down tight and chases out air before the adhesive sets, because a bubble left under veneer stays there. Edge banding adhesive is heat-activated, and a common household iron is the right tool for setting it.
What It Costs
Cabinet refacing runs $150 to $450 per linear foot. A linear foot is a foot of cabinet run measured along the wall, so a kitchen with twenty feet of cabinetry is priced on twenty feet.
What moves the price within that range is mostly quantity and condition. More footage costs more. Exposed ends that need plywood panels add work, and the door and drawer count changes the tally too. Prep counts as well: a kitchen with years of cooked-on grease takes longer to clean and scuff than one that was wiped down regularly. We measure in person and put the per-foot price against your actual footage in writing.

How Long It Takes, and the Weather
The schedule depends on your linear footage, how many doors and exposed ends there are, and how much prep the surfaces need. We give you the timeline when we measure, once we've seen all three.
It is indoor work, so rain and snow don't hold it up. The weather that does matter is the large swing between day and night temperatures in Castle Rock, which wood and veneer move with. That is one more reason we press the veneer down tight and band the raw edges, so they stay sealed through the swing.
Getting Started Is Simple
On a typical job, these are the main parts:
- Clean the exposed surfaces to remove grease, lightly scuff-sand them, and wipe away dust before applying new material.
Other Services We Offer
What to Expect to Pay
These ranges are here to help you budget, and we'll go over what pushes a job toward either end.
$4234–$10226
Straight Answers
(720) 640-0950A call is the quickest way to describe it, and you decide what happens next.
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